پیوندهای مفید
اخبار و اعلانات
آمار
| تعداد نشریات | 25 |
| تعداد شمارهها | 908 |
| تعداد مقالات | 7,477 |
| تعداد مشاهده مقاله | 12,081,420 |
| تعداد دریافت فایل اصل مقاله | 8,547,650 |
مطالعه موردی مُدگرایی و نزاع بر سر بدنِ عمومی نسل جوان شهر سنندج | ||
| مطالعات اجتماعی روان شناختی زنان | ||
| مقاله 2، دوره 20، شماره 4 - شماره پیاپی 73، بهمن 1401، صفحه 37-67 اصل مقاله (948.54 K) | ||
| نوع مقاله: مقاله پژوهشی | ||
| شناسه دیجیتال (DOI): 10.22051/jwsps.2022.38956.2556 | ||
| نویسندگان | ||
| جمال محمدی* 1؛ سمیرا نوری2 | ||
| 1این مقاله مستخرج از پایاننامه کارشناسی ارشد میباشد. .دانشیار گروه جامعهشناسی، دانشکده علوم انسانی و اجتماعی، دانشگاه کردستان، سنندج، ایران. (نویسنده مسئول) M.jamal8@gmail.com | ||
| 2دانشجوی کارشناسی ارشد جامعهشناسی، دانشکده علوم انسانی و اجتماعی، دانشگاه کردستان، سنندج، ایران. Samiranoori6898@gmail.com | ||
| چکیده | ||
| هدف این نوشتار مطالعۀ کیفی سبکهای جدید مُدگرایی در پوشش بهعنوان یکی از اصلیترین میدانهای نزاع بر سر بدنِ عمومی در فضاهای همگانی است. سوژههای مورد مطالعه از میان دختران 14 تا 30 سال شهر سنندج انتخاب شدهاند که پرسهزنی در فضاهای همگانی را بهعنوان فعالیت معمولی خود معرفی نمودهاند. دادهها از طریق مصاحبۀ فردی گردآوری و از طریق تحلیل مضمونی تفسیر شدهاند. طبق نتایج تحقیق، شش مضمون اصلی از دادهها قابل استنتاج است: نقش دوگانۀ مُدگرایی در افشاسازی/ پنهانسازی هویت؛ انتخاب مُد جایگزین بهعنوان راهی برای پسزدن رمزگانِ سنتیِ پوشش؛ کارکرد مُد در بازتولید دوگانۀ تمایز/ ادغام؛ استفاده از سبکهای مُدگرا برای نمایش پرستیژ و گشودگی فردی؛ مُدگرایی راهی برای تصرف فضاها؛ و جایگاه محوری مُدگرایی در منازعۀ بدن خصوصی/ بدن عمومی. ترسیم شبکۀ مضامین و خردهمضامین همبستۀ آنها بیانگر آن است که برای دخترانِ جوان، پرسهزنی در فضاهای همگانی، پیروی از سبکهای جدید پوشش، تصرف فضاها، متمایزکردن خویش از نسل قدیم، و تلاش برای مدیریت بدن خود در فضاهای عمومی جملگی اجزاء بههمپیوستۀ شکلی از زیستن هستند که میتوان ذیل مقولۀ هستهای «نمایش عمومی وجه مطلوبی از بودن» آن را نامگذاری کرد. بدینسان، استفادۀ دخترانِ جوان از سبک-های جدید لباس درست در لحظهای که بهقصد نمایاندن هویتی جدید انجام میشود عملاً حکم انتخاب نوعی مُد جایگزین برای سرپیچی از قواعد قدیمی پوشش را دارد. همین کنش، همزمان، آنها را قادر میسازد خود را درمقام اعضای یک خردهفرهنگ از فرهنگ کلی متمایز کنند و پرستیژ، شکوه، انعطاف و آراستگی خود را به نمایش بگذارند. | ||
| کلیدواژهها | ||
| سبک پوشش؛ بدن عمومی؛ مد جایگزین؛ فضا؛ نمایش | ||
| عنوان مقاله [English] | ||
| Fashion and the struggle over the public body | ||
| نویسندگان [English] | ||
| Jamal Mohammadi1؛ Samira Noori2 | ||
| 1Associate Professor of Sociology, University of Kurdistan, Sanandaj, Iran. m.jamal8@gmail.com. (Corresponding Author) | ||
| 2M.A. Student in Sociology, University of Kurdistan, Sanandaj, Iran. samiranoori6898@gmail. Com. | ||
| چکیده [English] | ||
| The aim of this article is to study new fashionable clothing styles as a main field of struggle among the public body in public spaces. The theoretical constructs include concepts taken from the theoretical tradition of hegemony-resistance which analyses activities like body-building, body-representation, women’s defiance of dominant clothing rules and their tendency toward alternative fashions in the context of popular culture and as examples of struggles over the public body. The sample, young girls of Sanandaj, recruited through a snowball-sampling strategy, reported their lived experiences of wearing fashionable clothing styles in urban public spaces via in-depth interviews. Data were analyzed using inductive thematic analysis and six key themes were found: the dual role of fashion in exposing/ concealing identity, choosing alternative fashion as a way to reject traditional dress codes, the role of fashion in reproducing the duality of distinction/ assimilation, using fashionable styles for representing personal prestige and openness, putting on fashion to seizing spaces, and the central role of fashion in the struggle over public/ private body. It was concluded that consuming fashionable clothing styles by young women creates the possibility for developing multiple feminine agencies. Unlike the prevalent tendency to think about Islamic women’s embodied subjectivity as homogeneous, we found a kind of heterogeneity in appearance and bodily practices. This heterogeneity is what challenges and resists the intended homogeneity of the dominant culture. In this sense, fashionable clothing styles are tools of resistance. Style of Clothing, Public Body, Alternative Fashion, Space, Representation, Distinction. Introduction The aim of this article is to study new fashionable clothing styles as a main field of struggle among the public body in public spaces. The theoretical constructs include concepts taken from the theoretical tradition of hegemony-resistance which analyses activities like body-building, body-representation, women’s defiance of dominant clothing rules and their tendency toward alternative fashions in the context of popular culture and as examples of struggles over the public body. In this theoretical tradition, fashion is regarded as a means by which social agents form their embodied social being and individuality, and reject any body form and identity pattern that is imposed on them by hegemonic culture. In the field of fashion, the exchange of cultural codes is inevitably done through the body, because choosing s fashion is actually choosing clothing models, jewellery, makeup and appearance. Fashion and clothing are a field related to power and resistance relations, and all the images, goods and signs of this field should be read as text and in a deconstructive way. In other words, here the cultural objects are nothing but signifying systems, and this signifying system of clothing is inseparable from the history of women, the history that is full of all kinds of signs of resistance against patriarchy and it should be read as a text by using disciplines such as art history, design history and cultural studies. Methodology The sample, young girls of Sanandaj, recruited through a snowball-sampling strategy, reported their lived experiences of wearing fashionable clothing styles in urban public spaces via in-depth interviews. Data were analyzed using inductive thematic analysis and six key themes were found: the dual role of fashion in exposing/ concealing identity, choosing alternative fashion as a way to reject traditional dress codes, the role of fashion in reproducing the duality of distinction/ assimilation, using fashionable styles for representing personal prestige and openness, putting on fashion to seizing spaces, and the central role of fashion in the struggle over public/ private body. Findings It was concluded that, from the viewpoint of young women, wandering in public spaces, following new styles of clothing, seizing spaces, differentiating themselves from the old generation, and trying to manage their own bodies in public spaces are all components of a life form which can be named under the title of “public representation of a desirable aspect of being”. Thus, the use of new styles of clothing by young women at the moment when it is done with the intention of showing a new identity is actually a kind of choosing an alternative fashion to reject the old rule of clothing. Thus, young women attribute much value to clothing and body images in public spaces. For this new generation, body maintenance, healthy diets, use of cosmetics, grooming and beauty aids are significant. They wear fashionable clothing styles to redefine their boundaries to the formal hegemonic culture. This new generation symbolizes flexibility as opposed to the infertility of formal public institutions. This means that they don new dressing styles not only for bodily self-expression but also for mocking the dominant culture, expressing resistance to it and producing fantasies of freedom. Here, cultural resistance finds expression in bodily representation and asserting one’s own femininity. This is a kind of opposition to the general direction imposed on social life by the dominant discourse, a resistance which finds its language in bodily practices. Thus, the main argument of this paper is that the current consumption of fashionable clothing styles by Iranian young women is a form of cultural resistance to a formal hegemonic culture which imposes a kind of institutional discrimination on them. Moreover, the article’s significance lies not only in its topicality but also in focusing on an under-researched group. Result Iranian young women, lacking any other form of power, use non-verbal symbols (clothing styles and ways of dressing) to express themselves publicly. Denied anything but very limited opportunities to roam in urban public spaces, they mainly represent themselves through clothing practices. These clothing practices, in a society where dialogue is deteriorating, serve the function of identifying the wearer’s social attitudes and behaviours. In other words, urban public spaces provide favourable environments for the development of alternative clothing styles and alternative images of women. For this reason, these spaces are at the same time the domains of the struggle between marginal and hegemonic discourses. Young women’s ways of dressing (marginal discourse) are considered deviant and vulgar by the dominant culture (hegemonic discourse). Changes in clothing styles, body modification and developing an alternative dress, adopted usually by upper- and middle-class young women, are all great challenges to dominant dress rules and clothing regulations. Therefore, the focal theme that runs through this article is that personal bodily projects are mobilized by young women to seek self-representation and to resist subjugating to normative bodily disciplines. They defy formal dress codes in subtle ways such as folding up the legs of their jeans, wearing ripped jeans, leaving their hair out of their scarf from the front and the back, etc. Consuming fashionable clothing styles by young women creates the possibility for developing multiple feminine agencies. Unlike the prevalent tendency to think about Islamic women’s embodied subjectivity as homogeneous, we found a kind of heterogeneity in appearance and bodily practices. This heterogeneity is what challenges and resists the intended homogeneity of the dominant culture. In this sense, fashionable clothing styles are tools of resistance. In a social environment where the conversation is waning, young women use dressing ways to send signs and messages to others. They try to find subtle and delicate ways to show their desire for openness, vitality and sociability. They are constantly looking for ways, through everyday public interactions, to empower their feminine individuality. That is why they resist the hegemonic body shape and traditional dress codes. Instead, they attempt to represent their bodies publicly in alternative dress styles and create alternative spaces for themselves. In short, they try to resist the unbearable heaviness of being the same. | ||
| کلیدواژهها [English] | ||
| style of clothing, public body, alternative fashion, space, representation | ||
| مراجع | ||
|
اسونسن، لارس. (1398). فلسفۀ فَشن. ترجمۀ آیدین رشیدی. تهران: نشر مشکی. افراسیابی، حسین و همکاران. (1394). تحلیل جامعهشناختی مُدگرایی در بین جوانان شهر یزد. جامعهشناسی سبک زندگی، 14(30)، 27-1. افروغ، عماد و مهربانیفر، حسین. (1397)، مطالعۀ چرخۀ مُد لباس در جامعۀ ایران. زن در فرهنگ و هنر، 10(1)، 27-1. بخارایی، احمد و رفیعی، ملکه. (1395). زنان و گرایش به مُد. زن در توسعه و سیاست، 14(3)، 328-309. بلیکی، نورمن. (1387). طراحی پژوهشهای اجتماعی. ترجمهٌ حسن چاوشیان. تهران: نشر نی. بهار، مهری و زارع، مریم. (1388). سنخبندی مُد در تهران: با تأکید بر پوشش زنان. پژوهش زنان، 7(3)، 48-27. شفیعی، سمیهسادات. (1393). سیری در رویکردهای نظری متأخر به مقاومت. علوم اجتماعی، 21(64)، 186-139. عنایت، حلیمه و سروش، مریم. (1388). میزان و نوع مقاومت زنان در رویارویی با ساختار قدرت در زندگی روزمره. پژوهش زنان، 7(2)، 112-85. فلیک، اووه. (1387). درآمدی بر تحقیق کیفی. ترجمهٌ هادی جلیلی. تهران: نشر نی. کاظمی، عباس. (1384). پروبلماتیک زندگی روزمره در مطالعات فرهنگی و نسبت آن با جامعه ایران. مطالعات فرهنگی و ارتباطات، (4)1، 124-105. معیدفر، سعید و حقیقی، عبدالحمید. (1387). عوامل اجتماعی گرایش به مُد در میان جوانان تهران. مطالعات جوانان، شماره 14 و 15، 150-137.
Afrasyabi, H., Sayarkhalaj, H. & Shokouhifar, K. (2015). Sociological analysis of fashionism among the youth of Yazd city. Journal of Strategic Studies of Sports, 14(30), 161-177. Afrough, E. (2018). The study of the fashion cycle in Iran society. Journal of Woman in Culture and Arts, 10(1), 1-27. (In persian) Almila, A. M. (2016). Fashion, anti-fashion, non-fashion and symbolic capital: The uses of dress among Muslim minorities in Finland. Fashion Theory, 20(1), 81-102. Almila, A. M. (2016). Cultural sociology of fashion: on the sartorial, symbolic and social in D. Inglis and Almila, Anna- Mari (eds), The SAGE Handbook of Cultural Sociology, London: SAGE Publications LTD. Aspers, P. & Godart, F. (2013). Sociology of fashion: Order and change. Annual Review of Sociology, 39, 171-92. Atkinson, M. (2014). The civilizing of resistance: straightedge tattooing. Deviant Behavior, 24(3), 197-220. Bahar, M. (2009). Categorization of fashion in Tehran: An emphasis on women’s clothing. Women’s Research, 7(3), 27-48. (In Persian) Blackman, S. (2007). Youth subcultural theory: A critical engagement with the concept, its origins and politics, from the Chicago school to postmodernism. Journal of Youth Studies, 8(1), 1-20. Blaikie, N. (2008). Designing social Research. Translated by Hassan Chawoshian. Teharan: Ney Publication. Bokharaie, A. & Rafie, M. (2016). Women and Fashionism. Woman in Development & Politics, 14(3), 309-328. (In Persian) Breward, C. (2015). Cultures, identities, histories: Fashioning a cultural approach to dress. Fashion Theory, 2(4), 301- 314. Clarke, J., Hall, S., Jefferson, T. & Roberts, B. (1976). Subcultures, Cultures and Class, in Resistance through Rituals: Youth Subcultures in Post-War Britain, edited by Stuart Hall and Tony Jefferson, London, UK: Hutchinson. Crane, D. (2000). Fashion and Its Social Agendas: Class, Gender and Identity in Clothing. University of Chicago Press. De Certeau, M. (1980). On the oppositional practice of everyday life. Translated by Jameson F. & Lovitt C. Social Text, 3, 3-43. Del Saz-Rubio, M. M. (2018). Female identities in TV toiletries ads: A pragmatic and multimodal analysis of implied meanings. Journal of Pragmatics, 136, 54-78. Enayat, H. & Soroush, M. (2009). The amount and type of women’s resistance in facing the power structure in everyday life. Women’s Research, 7(2), 85-112. (In Persian) Endelstein, L. & Ryan, L. (2013). Dressing religious bodies in public spaces: Gender, clothing and negotiations of stigma among Jews in Paris and Muslims in London. Integrative Psychological and Behavioral Science, 47(2), 249-264. Entwistle, J. (2000). The Fashioned Body: Fashion, Dress and Modern Social Theory, Cambridge: Polity. Entwistle, J. (2015). Fashion and its social agendas: Class, gender and identity in clothing by Diana Crane. Fashion Theory, 6(3), 331- 334. Featherstone, M. (2015). Consumer culture in International Encyclopedia of the Social & Behavioral Sciences, (ed) by James D. Wright. Elsevier. Flick, U. (2006). An Introduction to Qualitative Research. Translated By Hadi Jalili, Tehran: Ney Publication. (In Persian) Hoelscher, V. & Chatzidakis, A. (2018). Spaces of consumer resistance in The Sage Handbook of Consumer Culture, (eds) by Olga Kravets, Pauline Maclaran, Steven Miles and Alladi Venkatesh. London: SAGE Publications. Jafari, A. (2007). Two tales of a city: Exploratory study of cultural consumption among Iranian youth. Iranian Studies, 40(3), 366-383. Karademir Hazır, I. (2017). Wearing class: A study on clothes, bodies and emotions in Turkey. Journal of Consumer Culture, 17(2), 413-432. Kazemi, A. (2005). The problematic of cultural studies in Iran and its relation to everyday life. Journal of Cultural Studies & Communication, 4, 97-122. (In Persian) Lipovetsky, G. (2017). The empire of fashion: Introduction. In Fashion Theory (pp. 25-32). Routledge. Martinez, T. A. (1997). Popular culture as oppositional culture: Rap as Resistance. Sociological Perspectives, 40(2), 265-286. McRobbie, A. (1994). Postmodernism and Popular Culture. London: Routledge. Miranda, A., Maciel, E. J. C. & Pepece, O. M. C. (2016). Meaning and values in the consumption of fashion by men. International Journal of Marketing Studies, 8(6), 97- 104. Moidfar, S. & Haghighi, A. (2006). Social factors of the youth’s interest in fashion in Tehran. Journal of Youth Studies, 15, 137-150. (In Persian) Na’amneh, M. M. & Al Husban, A. K. (2012). Identity in old clothes: The socio-cultural dynamics of second-hand clothing in Irbid, Jordan. Social Identities, 18(5), 609-621. Partington, A. (1993). Popular fashion and working-class affluence, in Ash and E. Wilson (eds) Cheap Thrills: A fashion Reader. Berkeley and Los Angeles: University of California Press. Ragone, G. (1996). Consumption diffusion: Elite phenomena and mass processes. International Sociology, 11, 309-311. Ritzer, G., Douglas G. & Wendy, W. (2001). Theories of consumption in Ritzer, George, and Barry Smart, eds. Handbook of Social Theory. Salami, A. & Ghajarieh, A. (2016). Culture and gender representation in Iranian school textbooks. Sexuality & Culture, 20, 69-84. Schofield, K. & Schmidt, R. (2005). Fashion and clothing: The construction and communication of gay identities. International Journal of Retail and Distribution Management, 23(4), 310-323. Shafie, S. (2014). A study on recent theoretical approaches to resistance. Social Sciences, 21(64), 139-186. (In Persian) Storrey, M. & Childs, P. (1997). British Cultural Studies. London: Routledge. Svendsen, L. (2019). Philosophy of Fashion. Translated by Aidin Rashidi, Tehran: Meshki Publication. (In Persian) | ||
|
آمار تعداد مشاهده مقاله: 263 تعداد دریافت فایل اصل مقاله: 236 |
||